Scraping parquet with your own hands - instructions for scraping parquet

It would be desirable, that repair which is given hard, with the big expenses of forces, time and means, kept the freshness throughout long time. But, unfortunately, it does not work and the finish requires good care. For example, you may need to do a parquet with your own hands.

General information

Block parquet

Generally speaking, scraping - This is a series of events, which is aimed at giving the parquet floor an almost original appearance. It can be:

• manual;
• mechanical.

Manual shredding

The first method was very often used before special ones were developed fixtures. In cases where it is not possible to purchase or rent equipment, this method can be applied today. For machining, you will need several basic units of the power tool: a chipper (in essence it resembles a conventional belt grinder, but its weight and dimensions are several times greater), a vibrating or eccentric grinder, a vacuum cleaner and consumables.

The chipper

Is it always possible

In fact, you can always. It is more correct to raise the question of whether it will be expedient in each case.

Whether cycling is always possible

Before you decide on the recovery step, not the replacement, you must to weigh a few points:

• Whether a scraping was performed earlier. This moment is important to determine in order to know which layer has already been removed and whether it will not be a problem to remove another one.
• Is there a source of damp under the floor. To find out, you need to cover the floor with a film and leave for a few days. In the case when there is condensation on the oilcloth, it is important to find out the reason for its occurrence.
• Whether the fungus began to develop. Usually this factor is related to the previous one. In certain situations, to withdraw it completely fail. Even if you make a scraping and varnish, then over time the mold will show itself, and all the work will go down the drain.
• Significant mechanical damage to the flooring. If there are potholes that occupy a large area, then it may not be possible to remove them when removing the layer. If it comes to several plates, they can easily be replaced. In some cases, this issue can be resolved with a special putty.
• It is important to determine if the shaschel is wound up. In most cases, in such a situation, a complete replacement of the flooring will be required.

Replacing a damaged parquet

You can check the condition of the board inside using a standard sewed. It is enough to choose a floorboard, which is located on the edge. In the butt you need to drive the awl. If it fails, then perhaps the wood is already rotten. This test is necessary to conduct around the perimeter of the room. The wear level can also be checked in this way, only the tool needs to be immersed in butt joints before the spike. So you can find out which layer can still be removed.

Floor Preparation

Eliminating Gaps

This important process will help save your money and nerves.

• The very first step will be the release of space. It is necessary to remove all the furniture and other items from the room.
• Next you need to dismantle the baseboards. If you feel that they are planted tightly, then you should not be zealous, so as not to damage the floorboard.
• Carefully inspect the floor, walk on it. Listen, whether there are creaks or deflections in any points. Assess the potholes that are most likely present.
• When detecting sagging parts, it is necessary to determine the cause. If the beam is leaky from the bottom, you will have to disassemble a part of the coating and strengthen or replace it.
• If you notice squeaks, then eliminating them will be easy. It is necessary to drill a 45 под hole in the seam with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm. Further in this hole it is necessary to immerse to the whole depth a wooden dowel greased with white glue.
• When one of the floorboards is simply loose, it is necessary to drill a hole in it with a drill, it must be smaller than a nail in diameter. It is also better to make sweat. The nail is hammered and sunk as deep as possible, more depth of future processing.
• If there are potholes that are less than 3 mm deep, there is no need to take any action. If the depth is greater, then you need to putty it putty on wood and let it dry well.
• When there are large gaps between the floorboards, you can eliminate them by hammering in strips of wood that have been previously spread with glue. Instead of a tree, you can use the papier-mâché effect. Newsprint is moistened with white glue and placed in a gap in several layers. Excess is cut off, and what is left is covered with stain according to the color of the parquet.
• It is important to hammer all protruding nails around the perimeter so as not to damage the sanding belt.

The most important step

Before turning on the sander, all doors must be closed so that the dust does not fly to other rooms. Take off your shoes and wear soft socks, you can still wear shoe covers on top. This is very important, because the wood is easily damaged when it is left without a protective layer.

Work as a chisel machine

• We perform vacuum cleaning. It is better to use the construction, as the force of its suction will remove all particles of debris.

• Carefully look in which direction the wood fibers are. Need to move in the course of their location.
• Install sandpaper with a coarse grain on the grinder. Depending on which layer you plan to remove, it can be P40 or P60.
• Raise the drum before starting the unit, it is very important that the recess is not torn off. It is advisable to repeat this procedure when you change direction.
• Starting treatment costs from the middle of the room. If the parquet is laid diagonally, then it will be necessary to move. If it is laid parallel to the wall, then we move strictly along its lines. In the case when there are circular patterns on the floor, it is necessary to follow a twisting spiral.
• Each next strip should be done with a slight overlap on the first one.
• The second layer must be removed perpendicular to the first. It should also start from the middle of the room. At this stage it is better to install another sandpaper with a smaller grain, for example, P80.
• Shoe Now you need to remove the remnants of the upper layer, which is closer to the wall. It is better to do this with a special shoe. This is a grinding machine that is shaped like a boot. It can be replaced by an eccentric one, if you are sure that it will be able to pass through hard-to-reach places. Some masters prefer to do this with a grinder, on which a special circle with a velcro sandpaper is installed.
• After the room has been passed and the top coat has been varnished, it is necessary to once again inspect the entire coating. You may notice that the cracks are bare. Now is the time to putty them.
• After all these procedures, you need a surface grinder and fine-grained sandpaper (P100 or 120). Well, if you can use the unit with three discs. There are two passes in the directions, as in the previous case. After this, it is also necessary to do a sweep in the direction parallel to the walls.

Surface grinding

Be sure to use a respirator during work. Not all particles will be removed to the dust collector. This way you protect your airways from harmful inclusions that may be contained in the lacquer. If it is not possible to rent a special machine for grinding, then it can be replaced with a conventional tape machine or a manual cycle (when using the latter option, it will be necessary to moisten the floor so that the process proceeds with less strain on the hands). But in this case, you will need several days, or even weeks, in order to remove the top layer.

Attention to the tool

Processing after grinding

After completing polishing is still half the job - finishing. At this stage, we need a microfiber roller with a long stick, varnish, the shade of which is chosen according to the preferences of the owner and the primer.

Vacuuming

• After finishing polishing, you need to vacuum everything well again.
• We cover the whole area with a primer. It will well fill some shortcomings and will contribute to the partial leveling of the surface. It is better to apply 2‒3 layers. This must be done at intervals of 30 minutes.
• Next, let the floor dry well. For this you may need a day.
• It may be necessary to once again walk the surface grinding machine. The fact is that after processing the primer, some fibers can rise.
• Again, we clean with a vacuum cleaner and apply another layer of primer.
• Now we proceed to varnishing. To achieve the perfect result, you will need 2‒3 layers. Approximately for every 10 m ² you will need 1 liter of varnish.
• It should be applied starting from the place where more sunlight falls. Roller need to pass first along and then across. The first movement - we put, the second - we align a layer.
• Allow time for the first layer to dry well.
• Passing a surface grinder with a very fine sandpaper. This is necessary for good adhesion to occur with the next coat of varnish.
• We clean and apply the next layer. Next, repeat the previous step.
• Apply the finish layer and let it dry well.

Primer

Before you start working, you need to give varnish purchase room temperature. Also in the room must be respected a certain temperature. Usually this value is + 18˚C. In this case it will be easier to apply varnish, and also its drying will occur faster.

In most cases, it is impossible to do without a chiklevka. This is very painstaking and sometimes tedious work, but the result will delight you for more than one year. Good luck in your endeavors!

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