Sharpening circular saw with their own hands: how to sharpen

Regardless of the tool used in the work, it is always subject to wear, but in some cases temporary restoration is possible. So sharpening a circular saw with your own hands is a natural process that anyone can perform.

An inside look at the circular saw

The disk itself is made of very durable alloys 50HFA, 9HF and 65G, and foreign companies use their versions with similar properties. The material has a high reliability and rigidity, so that incidents occur very rarely.

But the working part (cutting plates) is usually made on the basis of tungsten, carbide and cobalt, due to which it turns out to achieve high strength properties. The characteristics of the alloys are formed at the initial stage, since they depend not only on the proportion, but also on the granularity of the carbide phase (as the granularity decreases, the strength increases).

The cutting plates are soldered to the disk by means of high temperatures, and silver (optimally) or copper-zinc (worse) is used as the solder. The copper-zinc variant is ideal for seasonal homework, while higher-quality silver counterparts are needed for power-saw benches and professional workshops.

Now we need to carefully consider 1 tooth of the circular saw (Fig. 1). Very unusual will be the fact that there are 4 work areas:

• A. Front;
• B. Rear;
• B. 2 auxiliary.

These zones intersect with each other, thus forming 3 cutting edges:

• 1. Primary;
• 2 and 3. Auxiliary.

It is thanks to such a complex system that a high-quality cut occurs without errors and nuances. In addition, there are 4 more types of such teeth:

1. Straight. Longitudinal quick cut, where you can sacrifice a little quality.
2. Bevelled. The main option that allows you to work with most materials in all directions (longitudinal and transverse). Skewness happens to the left and to the right, and more often on saws, both versions alternate, thereby improving quality. With a large bevel can be used as a scoring, because they do not give chips.
3. Trapezoidal. Slowly dull, but perfectly show themselves to work. Often used in combination with direct, thanks to which it is possible to achieve the most accurate effect. The trapezoid is elevated above the straight, therefore it does the rough work, and the straight one in turn does the finishing.
4. Conic. Such saws are used as auxiliary, so as not to allow chipping, as well as for cross-cutting, when sawing the lower layers of the laminate.

How to sharpen the tool?

The main wear occurs at the upper cutting edge and the front face, therefore, the main sharpening activity is directed to them. But do not forget about the side faces, because when working with massive workpieces, they also get their considerable load.

When working, do not allow a bluntness of more than 0.2 mm, because otherwise the sharpening will take much more time and effort. This factor is determined visually by cutting or by the tooth itself.

The sharpening of the tooth should be done in 2 planes - front and rear, which will significantly prolong the life. Sharpening only the front end will shorten these periods at least 2 times. Before starting work, the metal is cleaned of all third-party materials, and then degreased.

Only 2 types of wheels are used for work:

• CBN (elbor) is used for sharpening high-speed steel with a high strength factor;
• PCD (diamond and silicon) serve for sharpening hard alloys. During long-term operation, coolant coolant is required (water cannot be used), because when it reaches 900 C, the diamond burns.

When sharpening, the tooth is ideally butted to the working surface, otherwise you can lose the entire disk, or not achieve the desired result. Due to the fact that each disc takes a considerable amount of time, you need to mark the starting point with a marker.

Special machines are equipped with everything necessary to ensure comfortable operation, so it’s almost impossible to make a mistake on them, while in artisanal conditions you will have to show some ingenuity. The following tools and materials are required:

• stand;
• electric motor;
• adapter head;
• sheet steel;
• Bulgarian;
• screws.

To begin with, you will need a small electric motor, which is qualitatively fixed to the surface at a height of 5 cm or higher. An adapter for grinding discs is put on the shaft, after which the basic design is ready.

But in the hands it is inconvenient to hold the objects being sharpened, therefore for them 3 cm below the shaft another 1 plane of sheet steel is formed at a distance of 2 cm. It makes 3 longitudinal cuts with a step of 1 cm and a diameter of 0.3 cm in which the fixing screws will be screwed.

As a panel for fixing, you can think of a lot of things, up to a frame made of reinforcement for each individual diameter. The result is important - strictly perpendicular position, which allows you to influence the entire edge operated.

The sharpening of the teeth on a chainsaw and on a hacksaw is done in a similar way, but in the latter case, you can use grinding stones, because the material is very malleable, and a small error as a result will give a very subtle effect. When sharpening such saws, another complication often arises - the teeth are unbent, which makes the operation much more difficult in the future.

Summarizing

Despite the many nuances, sharpening of circular saws is quite simple and fast. It is important to carry out this process with great precision, so that it will be possible to achieve the final result in the shortest possible time.

In the absence of a professional tool for sharpening a saw at hand, you can build it from scrap materials.

For complete assembly, it usually takes up to 3 hours, and the service life is limited only by the capabilities of the electric motor itself.